Deer Fence Maintenance & Troubleshooting

A properly installed deer fence requires relatively little maintenance. We recommend inspecting the entire fence twice a year, removing vines and weeds seasonally, and checking for damage after significant storms or high winds.

When a deer fence is first installed, we recommend checking it every week or two. Deer that are accustomed to traveling through an area need time to learn that a new barrier is there. During this adjustment period, it's especially important to look for areas where deer may have run into the fence before realizing it was there.

Once deer have become accustomed to the fence, twice-yearly inspections are generally sufficient. If you're experiencing deer break-ins, you'll want to inspect the fence more frequently until the problem is identified and corrected.

Here are the key areas to check during routine maintenance:

• The bottom of the fence: This is one of the most commonly overlooked areas. Look for chew holes, loose fencing, missing ground stakes, or places where animals may be pushing underneath.

• Horizontal tension cables: Check for broken, loose, or deteriorating cables, particularly along the top of poly fencing.

• Posts and bracing: Make sure posts remain upright and all braces are properly positioned and secured.

• Gates: Check that gates open and close properly, latch securely, and don't leave gaps where deer could enter.

• Fasteners: Inspect nylon cable ties and hog ring clips for deterioration, rust, or missing connections.

• Fencing material: Look for tears in poly fencing, damaged welded wire, or areas affected by fallen branches.

• Vines, weeds, and vegetation: Seasonally remove vines, weeds, and other vegetation growing on or through the fence. Overgrown vegetation can add weight to the fencing material, put unnecessary strain on the fence, and make it harder to spot damage or openings. Remove vegetation carefully to avoid damaging the fencing.

Over time, smaller components may need to be replaced even when the fencing material and posts are still in excellent condition.

Here are some common maintenance items and their expected lifespans:

• Nylon cable ties: Typically last approximately 5–10 years in full sun and 5–15 years in more shaded locations.

• Hog ring clips: Should be checked for rust and deterioration beginning around five years after installation. Some may need replacement or additional clips around ten years, particularly in coastal environments.

• Nylon tension cables: Can become brittle after years of sun exposure or break from damage caused by falling branches and trees.

• Ground stakes: Should be checked periodically to ensure the bottom of the fence remains secured.

For older fences, we recommend paying particular attention to the bottom edge and horizontal tension cables. These are two areas where problems can develop without being immediately noticeable.

If your fence is near salt water, inspect metal components more frequently because corrosion may develop sooner.

Replacing relatively inexpensive components as needed can make a significant difference in the long-term performance of your fence.

The lifespan of a deer fence depends on the fencing material, sun exposure, soil conditions, installation method, and ongoing maintenance.

Based on our installation experience, here are some general expectations for properly installed fencing materials and components:

Poly deer fencing: Our Extra Strength and Maximum Strength poly fencing can last approximately 20–25 years in areas that are not exposed to full sun throughout the day. In open areas with constant sun exposure, 15–20 years is a more realistic expectation before the material may begin becoming brittle.

Welded wire metal fencing: Our heavy-duty 14-gauge galvanized welded wire, coated with black PVC to approximately 12 gauge, can last 20–30 years when properly installed with appropriate tension cable support.

Fence posts installed over reverse sleeves: Above-ground fence posts used with our Professional System can last 30 years or more.

Fence posts installed inside traditional ground sleeves: Posts used with a Standard System may last approximately 10–25 years, depending heavily on soil drainage and moisture exposure.

Standing water is particularly damaging to metal posts and ground sleeves because it can accelerate corrosion.

Keep in mind that these are general lifespan estimates, not guarantees. Environmental conditions can significantly affect how long individual components last.

A fence does not necessarily need to be replaced simply because it is getting older. If the fencing material remains strong and the posts and bracing are in good condition, replacing worn fasteners or damaged sections may be all that's necessary.

However, if the fencing material has become brittle, the posts are rusting, or multiple structural components are failing, replacing larger portions of the fence may be the more practical long-term solution.

Yes! Many types of deer fence damage can be repaired without replacing the entire fence.

The best repair method depends on the fencing material, the extent of the damage, and whether the posts and supporting components are still in good condition.

Small holes or tears in poly fencing can often be repaired using hog ring clips, cable ties, or a patch of matching fencing material.

Broken tension cables can generally be repaired by splicing in a new section using Gripples.

Damaged posts, bracing, and other structural components may also be replaced individually.

When welded wire is severely damaged, such as by a fallen tree, replacing the affected section is often necessary.

Before purchasing replacement materials, inspect the entire damaged area to determine whether the problem is limited to the fencing material or also involves the supporting structure.

Our goal is always to help customers reuse components that are still in good condition rather than replace materials unnecessarily.

Small holes and tears in poly deer fencing can often be repaired using hog ring clips, nylon cable ties, or a patch of poly fencing.

If the fencing material has been pulled apart but remains in reasonably good condition, you may be able to bring the damaged edges back together and secure them with hog ring clips or cable ties.

For larger holes, a patch of poly fencing can be placed over the damaged area and secured with hog ring clips and/or cable ties.

It's also important to determine why the hole developed in the first place.

For example, if animals are chewing through the bottom of the poly fencing, repairing the hole alone may not prevent the problem from happening again.

In that situation, we often recommend adding a metal chew guard fence along the bottom of the poly fence.

If the poly material has become brittle from age or prolonged sun exposure, patching may only provide a temporary solution. When the surrounding material is deteriorating, replacing the affected fencing may be more practical.

Our heavy-duty PVC-coated galvanized welded wire is designed to withstand normal deer pressure and outdoor conditions. Unlike poly fencing, welded wire generally doesn't tear, although it can become dented or develop broken welds.

When welded wire fencing is severely damaged, it's often the result of an unusual event, such as a large tree or heavy branch falling on the fence or a large buck getting its antlers caught in the wire.

In those situations, replacing the damaged section of welded wire is usually the most practical repair.

The affected fencing material may need to be removed and a new section installed.

If tension cables were damaged, they may also need to be repaired or replaced.

Before replacing the wire, inspect the posts, sleeves, and bracing to make sure the supporting structure is still intact.

Fallen trees and large branches are among the most common causes of significant deer fence damage, particularly on wooded properties.

The first step is to safely remove the fallen debris and inspect the entire affected section. Large trees or branches under tension can be dangerous, so professional tree removal may be necessary before attempting fence repairs.

The extent of the repair depends on whether the damage is limited to the fencing material and tension cables or also involves posts, sleeves, bracing, and gates.

If the posts, bracing, and gates are undamaged: We can often replace the affected fencing material and repair broken tension cables by splicing in new cable using Gripples.

If posts or bracing have been knocked out of position: They may be reusable if they are not bent or otherwise damaged.

If a Professional System reverse sleeve has been bent: Depending on the extent of the damage, the sleeve may be straightened using a little leverage because the reverse sleeve has some malleability.

If components are severely bent or damaged: We recommend replacing them.

In many cases, the repair is limited to one section of the fence rather than the entire enclosure.

A sagging deer fence is often the result of a missing, loose, or broken top tension cable—or a top tension cable that was never installed.

This is especially common with poly deer fencing, which is fabric-like and depends on the support system to maintain its height and shape.

If a poly fence was originally installed without a top tension cable, the material may gradually slide down the posts and sag between them.

If the fence previously had a properly installed top tension cable and suddenly begins sagging, check whether the cable has broken or become disconnected.

To correct a sagging poly fence:

• Inspect the top tension cable for breaks or loose connections.

• Tighten an existing cable if it has become loose.

• Splice in a replacement section if the cable has broken.

• Add a top tension cable if one was never installed. This can be done by adding alignment bands or brace bands with eyebolts as supporting hardware to run the horizontal tension cable through.

• Check the fencing connections at each post. There should be at least three nylon cable ties securing the fencing material to each post.

• Inspect the posts and bracing to make sure they are still providing adequate support.

Our welded wire metal fencing is much more rigid and generally does not sag in the same way as poly fencing.

If a metal fence appears to be leaning or out of alignment, the issue may involve the posts or supporting structure rather than the fencing material itself.

For both Professional and Standard Systems, proper cable support and bracing are important to maintaining the fence's intended height and stability.

Leaning fence posts can result from soil movement, inadequate support, damage from fallen trees, or deterioration of the ground sleeves and posts.

The best way to correct the problem depends on which post system you have.

Professional System: Our reverse sleeves have enough flexibility that a leaning post can sometimes be brought back into alignment using a little body weight and leverage.

A wooden block or rock can also be wedged into the ground next to the sleeve to help push it back in the desired direction.

Another option is to remove the fence post from the sleeve and straighten the reverse sleeve before reinstalling the post.

If the sleeve or post is severely damaged, replacement may be necessary.

Standard System: Straightening a leaning post can be more challenging because the post fits inside a shorter ground sleeve installed flush with the ground.

Depending on the conditions, it may be possible to improve support by wedging an angled wood block or rock into the ground, adding bracing, or applying counter-tension.

However, it's important to determine whether the post is leaning because of inadequate support or because the sleeve or post has deteriorated.

If the bottom of the post has rusted, simply straightening it will not correct the underlying problem.

Older Standard Systems may benefit from replacing deteriorated sleeves or upgrading individual posts to reverse sleeves where appropriate.

Horizontal tension cables help support the fencing material and maintain the fence's intended shape and height.

A loose or broken top tension cable is one of the first things we look for when a poly deer fence begins sagging.

If the cable is intact but loose, it can often be retightened using the existing Gripple connector.

Hold the Gripple in place and pull the loose end of the cable extending beyond the connector. This draws additional cable through the connector and increases the tension.

If the cable is broken, a new section of nylon tension cable can typically be spliced into the existing cable using Gripples.

You generally don't need to replace the entire cable when only one section has been damaged.

However, older nylon tension cables can become brittle after years of sun exposure.

As a general guideline, our 12-gauge nylon tension cable may last approximately 10–15 years in substantial sunlight, while our heavier 8-gauge nylon cable generally lasts longer.

Actual lifespan varies considerably depending on environmental conditions.

After 20 years or more, we recommend paying particular attention to signs of brittleness or deterioration. If the cable is cracking or becoming noticeably brittle, replacement may be preferable to repeatedly repairing individual breaks.

Metal-core tension cable can offer a longer lifespan, but it generally does not tension as tightly as nylon cable.

Rust is often caused by prolonged moisture exposure, particularly when water becomes trapped around the bottom of a metal fence post below ground level.

This is an important difference between traditional ground sleeve systems and our Professional reverse-sleeve design.

Standard System and traditional ground sleeves: The ground sleeve is driven flush with the ground, and the fence post is inserted into it.

In wet or poorly draining soil, water can collect inside the sleeve around the bottom of the post. Over time, this standing water can contribute to corrosion of both the sleeve and the post.

We've encountered significant rust damage in traditional sleeve systems, sometimes in as little as five years under unfavorable conditions.

Professional System: Our reverse sleeves are hollow and allow water to drain. The fence post slides over the exposed sleeve above ground level and is protected by a post cap.

This design eliminates the below-ground sleeve with a crimped bottom that can cause water to become trapped.

If you're inspecting an older deer fence, pay close attention to the condition of the posts near and below ground level, especially if the fence was installed in wet, poorly draining soil.

A post that appears to be in good condition above ground may have significant corrosion at the bottom.

If the post or sleeve is deteriorating, replacing the damaged components is generally a better solution than simply adding more support.

You can also read our article about rust in traditional deer fence ground sleeves for examples of this problem.

If deer are getting inside a fenced area, the first step is to determine exactly how they're entering.

Based on our installation and repair experience, there are several common causes.

An open gate: Sometimes a gate has been left open by a visitor, contractor, landscaper, or someone other than the homeowner.

Gaps underneath the fence: Deer may find an area where the bottom of the fencing isn't properly secured or has a tear or hole, allowing them to push or crawl underneath.

Unnoticed damage: A fallen tree or branch may have created an opening in a section of fence that isn't regularly inspected.

Sagging fencing: A poly deer fence with a missing or broken top tension cable may sag significantly below its intended height.

For example, even if the posts are 7 or 8 feet tall, the actual fencing material may sag to only 5 or 6 feet in some areas. This can make it easier for deer to jump over the fence.

Our welded wire metal fencing is more rigid and generally doesn't experience the same type of sagging as poly fencing.

If deer are getting inside, we recommend walking the entire fence line and inspecting the bottom edge, gates, top tension cable, and any areas where trees or branches may have caused damage.

It's also important to remember that a deer that gets inside may not find its way back out through the same opening.

Identifying and correcting the entry point is essential to preventing repeated problems.

Deer can sometimes push or crawl underneath fencing that isn't adequately secured along the bottom.

This is particularly common where the terrain changes, the ground dips between posts, or the fence was not properly staked down during installation.

The first step is to identify where the opening is occurring.

Depending on the situation, there are several ways to correct the problem.

Add ground stakes: Secure the bottom of the fencing more firmly to the ground, particularly in areas where deer have been pushing underneath.

Add additional fencing material: If the existing material doesn't reach the ground adequately, additional fencing may be needed to close the gap.

Install another post: If the distance between posts is large or the ground dips significantly between them, an additional post can help fill the space and support the fencing down to ground level.

Add a bottom tension cable: If the fence doesn't already have one, a bottom tension cable can significantly improve how securely the fencing is held against the ground.

The cable is secured with hardware near the bottom of each line post, and the fencing material is then attached to the cable. This creates a more secure bottom edge and helps prevent deer from lifting the fencing to crawl underneath.

The best solution depends on the terrain and the way the fence was originally installed.

We also recommend checking nearby sections for similar openings. Once deer discover a way underneath a fence, they may continue testing other areas.

A properly secured bottom edge is just as important as the height of the fence when it comes to keeping deer out.

Yes! In many cases, an existing deer fence can be strengthened or upgraded without replacing the entire system.

The most appropriate improvements depend on the condition of the existing materials and how the fence was originally installed.

Some common upgrades include:

Adding horizontal tension cables: These can improve support for the fencing material, particularly on older poly fences that were installed without adequate cable support.

Adding line posts: Additional posts can help reduce long spans between existing posts and provide better support, especially where the terrain changes.

Improving bracing: Adding or upgrading bracing can help strengthen corners, ends, and gate areas.

Installing a metal chew guard: Adding welded wire fencing along the bottom of an existing poly fence can help protect against damage from chewing animals.

Replacing deteriorated posts or sleeves: Older ground sleeve systems can sometimes be upgraded using Professional System components while reusing materials that are still in good condition.

Before making improvements, we recommend inspecting the existing fence to determine which components can be reused.

If the fencing material is still strong and the posts are in good condition, relatively simple upgrades may significantly improve the fence's performance.

However, if multiple components are rusting or deteriorating, a more extensive repair may be the better investment.

Yes! A metal chew guard can be added to the bottom of an existing poly deer fence, even years after the original installation.

Chew guard fencing is available in 2-, 3-, and 4-foot heights. It can be installed flush with the ground or flared outward along the ground to help prevent animals from digging underneath.

This is a common upgrade for customers who discover that rabbits, groundhogs, or other animals are chewing holes through the bottom of their poly fencing.

We generally recommend using lighter-gauge, 19-gauge welded wire metal fencing with a 1" × 1" grid along the lower portion of the existing fence to provide additional protection.

For the best installation, we recommend having a horizontal tension cable positioned at the height where the top of the chew guard will be installed.

The chew guard can then be attached to the tension cable and the existing poly fencing using hog ring clips.

We also recommend using approximately two to three cable ties to secure the chew guard to each fence post.

The horizontal tension cable isn't absolutely required, but it provides additional support and is our preferred installation method.

If your existing fence doesn't have a cable at the appropriate height, one can often be added.

Adding a chew guard is often a practical way to extend the usefulness of an existing poly fence without replacing the entire installation.

You can view our metal chew guard fencing for available options.

Yes! Many components of an existing Standard Deer Fence System can be upgraded using Professional System materials without necessarily rebuilding the entire fence.

The extent of the upgrade depends on the condition of the existing posts, sleeves, bracing, and fencing material.

For example, customers may be able to:

• Add new posts where additional support is needed.

• Install Professional System hardware-secured diagonal bracing.

• Add horizontal tension cables and appropriate tensioning hardware.

• Reset compatible Standard System posts on new reverse sleeves.

• Upgrade gate posts and add appropriate bracing.

If an existing post has rusted at the bottom, it may be possible to cut off the damaged portion and reinstall the remaining sound post over a new reverse sleeve, provided the remaining post is suitable for reuse.

Gates may also be able to be reset on new reverse sleeves, and diagonal bracing can be added, depending on their design and condition.

One of the advantages of upgrading an existing fence is that you may not need to replace every component to improve the system's strength and durability.

However, compatibility and the condition of the existing materials should be evaluated before purchasing replacement parts.

If the fencing material and posts are already near the end of their useful lives, a more extensive replacement may be more practical.

For additional information about the differences between the two systems, visit our Professional vs. Standard Deer Fence Systems FAQ.

Yes! Many of our deer fence components and replacement parts are compatible with common deer fencing systems that have been sold since the mid-1990s.

We've worked with a wide variety of deer fencing materials and installation methods over the years, and we can often help customers repair or upgrade fences that were not originally purchased from us.

The best place to start is usually with photographs of your existing fence.

Photos help us identify the type of fencing, posts, ground sleeves, bracing, and hardware being used.

This is particularly helpful because customers and manufacturers sometimes use different names for the same components.

Measurements are also important, but there's a distinction between common or nominal sizes and actual dimensions.

For example, two components may be described using the same common size but have slightly different actual measurements.

We can physically measure our components to help determine whether they're compatible with an existing system.

When should you repair an older fence versus replace it?

If the fencing material has reached the end of its expected lifespan and is beginning to fail, we recommend inspecting the posts and below-ground components as well.

Older fences may have significant rust or deterioration below ground, particularly when traditional sleeves have been exposed to standing water.

In that situation, the best approach may be to reuse components that are still structurally sound and free of significant corrosion while replacing the materials that have deteriorated.

Our goal is to help you make practical repairs and improvements without purchasing more materials than necessary.

If you're unsure what components you have or what you need to make a repair, contact The Benner Deer Fence Co. with photos and information about your existing fence. We'll be happy to help you evaluate your options.